Kukeri and Surva
Kukeri is an ancient Bulgarian tradition where costumed people, wearing elaborate masks and bells, perform rituals to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. This centuries-old practice is celebrated in villages across Bulgaria and is a key highlight of the Surva Festival. It is the country’s largest Kukeri gathering, held annually in Pernik. Despite challenges such as Christianization, Ottoman rule, and communism, Kukeri at Surva Festival has endured, preserving Bulgaria’s rich cultural heritage and uniting communities through vibrant costumes, rhythmic dances, and the echoing sound of bells.
Origins
The Kukeri tradition is deeply rooted in the ancient Thracian civilization, which once thrived across the Balkan Peninsula, including parts of modern-day Bulgaria and Romania. The Thracians, believed to be the ancestors of the Romanian Dacians, performed similar masked rituals to honor their gods, celebrate fertility, and ward off evil spirits. These ceremonies were closely linked to the worship of Dionysus, the god of wine, fertility, and revelry, who played a central role in Thracian culture. Archaeological evidence suggests that these rituals were not confined to Bulgaria alone but were also practiced in parts of Romania and the broader Balkan region. Over time, the Kukeri tradition endured through the ages, with some sources indicating that it was brought to Romania by Bulgarians who crossed the Danube in search of a better life. Today, in Romania the festival is celebrated in places like Branesti, a small town near Bucharest, where the spirit of the Kukeri continues to thrive.
Costumes
The elaborate costumes worn by the Kukeri participants are a testament to the craftsmanship and dedication that go into preserving this ancient tradition. These outfits, often weighing several kilograms, are meticulously handmade, with intricate details that reflect both the creativity and cultural significance of the festival. The costumes feature large, clanging bells, which are meant to ward off evil spirits, as well as fur, animal skins, and wooden masks that resemble mythological creatures, gods, or spirits. Each element of the costume carries deep symbolic meaning, representing fertility, protection, and the cyclical nature of life.
The process of creating these costumes is not a simple task—it often involves many months of hard work. One costume is either cared for and passed down to younger generations, while new costumes must be made by the wearer themselves. Often costumes are very larger especially the head wear which is often made from sheep skin or other type of fur and it is designed to be very tall. While needlework was traditionally considered women’s work in Bulgaria, creating a Kukeri costume is an exception, with men dedicating much of the year to designing and assembling their elaborate outfits.
The Dances
The Surva Festival is a vibrant display of ancient traditions, featuring intricate dances, symbolic reenactments of the battle between good and evil, and the carrying of torches at night to banish malevolent spirits. Central to the festival is survakane, an act where participants, known as Survakari, use a decorated tree branch to gently tap festival-goers on the back. Adorned with ornaments such as cotton, coins, flowers, and colorful threads, particularly red, the taps are believed to bring good fortune and health for the coming year. In return, the recipient typically offers a few coins or a bill to the Survakari as a token of gratitude.
The festival’s dancers, known as Kukers, have traditionally been men, with participation once regarded as a rite of passage in many communities.
The music and musical instruments
During Kukeri at Surva Festival, music plays a crucial role in creating the energetic atmosphere. Traditional instruments are used to accompany the rhythmic dances and the sound of clanging bells. The most prominent instruments include drums, bagpipes, and flutes, which are commonly heard during the performances. The drums provide a deep, resonating beat that matches the energetic movements of the dancers, while the bagpipes contribute a haunting melody that evokes a sense of ancient tradition. The flutes add lighter, more melodic tones to the music, complementing the other instruments and creating a dynamic mix of sounds. The combination of these instruments, along with the clanging of the cowbells worn by the Kukeri dancers, produces an intense, almost hypnotic rhythm that is said to help drive away evil spirits and bring fertility and prosperity to the community. The bells that are worn at the kukers waists are big and loud. They can be heard form quite some distance away.
Photographing Kukeri at Surva Festival – When to visit Bulgaria
Kukeri at Surva Festival typically takes place during the period leading up to Lent, marking the transition from winter to spring. In Bulgaria, the most famous celebration occurs around January 13th to 15th, coinciding with the Orthodox Christian holiday of Surva. The Surva festival, held annually in Pernik, is the largest and most well-known Kukeri event, where participants gather to perform their rituals and dances. Smaller Kukeri celebrations also occur in various towns and villages throughout Bulgaria.
Photographing the Kukeri Festival offers a great opportunity to document an important cultural tradition. The costumes, with their colorful fabrics and detailed masks, provide interesting subjects against the backdrop of Bulgaria’s towns and villages. The dances and performances offer chances to capture movement and expression, while the details of the costumes allow for close-up shots. Early morning and evening light can enhance the images, bringing out the textures and patterns. Whether you’re an experienced photographer or just starting out, the festival provides a unique chance to explore Bulgaria’s traditions through photography.
You will have the opportunity to photograph not only kukeri but other regions of Bulgaria and Greece as well on our photo tour – Bulgaria Photo Tour: Kukeri Festival + Meteora.
Today, the Kukeri tradition continues to be passed down from generation to generation, with each new generation embracing the festival’s cultural significance and vibrant spirit. The enthusiasm for the event has grown immensely, transforming it into one of the most popular and anticipated festivals in Bulgaria. What began as a local ritual has now become a lively carnival-like celebration, attracting visitors from all over the world. Tourists flock to Bulgaria during this time to witness the captivating performances, the intricate costumes, and the festive atmosphere, making it an unforgettable experience that truly immerses them in the rich cultural heritage of the region.
Similar to the Kukeri tradition in Bulgaria, Romania also boasts its own unique festivals where participants dress up and perform dances to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. One such festival is the Bear Dance, celebrated in several regions of Romania, particularly around the time of New Year’s. In this tradition, participants wear elaborate bear costumes, often made from real bear skins, and engage in energetic dances that mimic the movements of the animal. The bear symbolizes strength and vitality, and the dance is meant to drive away evil spirits while ensuring a prosperous and healthy year ahead. Like the Kukeri, the Bear Dance is a deeply rooted cultural tradition, passed down through generations, and is an integral part of Romania’s rich folklore and customs. You can book a tour – “The Bear Dance Festival in Romania” Photo Tour – to experience the bear dance festival here or you can read more about it in our article – The intriguing Bear Dance Festival in Romania.
